Process of making felt hats



Sept. 15, 1936. s. KANNr-:R

PROCESS OF MAKING FELT HATS Filed Feb. lO

@litem/Lug Patented Sept. 15, 1936 f UNITED STATES c PATENT OFFICEClaims.

The generally approved and popular process in the forming 'and shapingof felt hats from the formed an-d dyed bodies, consists in a number ofsuccessive steps or operations involving the 5 use of a number ofdifferent machines for performing these operations as well as theemployment of a number of craftsmen necessary for the proper performanceof these several steps.

Briey, the present day process consists in rst manually fitting theunshaped and dyed body to a Wooden block of proper size andconfiguration, the size depending, of course, upon the size the hat isto assume when completed. In tting the body to the block, the rimportion of the body is turned outwardly and a cord is usually passedtightly and tied around the body at the juncture of the rim therewith,whereupon the block is inverted and applied to a. press, being suspendedtherein by clamps which attach to the body rim.

Thus positioned in the press, steam under pressure is admitted to theentire exterior surface of the body until a relatively high degree ofsaturation occurs.

A plunger then descends and forces the block further into the crownwhile still subjected to steam under pressure, causing the .body toaccurately conform to the size and shape of the block. Upon removal ofthe plunger, the block with the body thus treated is withdrawn from themold and is applied to a machine which irons the crown smoothly upon theblock in an eifort to return the fibers of the body to their -originalcondition. Moisture is applied in this ironing step. After the crown hasbeen ironed, the block with the body thereon is applied to a brim ironerwhere the same treatment is carried out, After both crown and brim havebeen ironed, pouncing is required where a smooth finish is desired. .Thepouncing operation necessitates separate machines, one in which thecrown is pounced, while the other is employed for brim pouncing. In someinstances the steam and moisture treatment has been found to disturbthe'dye in the body, whereupon special treatment and further handpouncing for both crown and brim becomes necessary. Y

After the body has been thus formed, shaped and set, the brim is out,the lining and sweat bands are applied, the rim is trimmed and the hatis ready for use. Y

There are several objections to this process, among which are thatuniform sizes are not assured, uniform colors are by nor means certain,the expense of special machinery and labor necessar-y in the performanceof the many treatments or steps required for the production of a salablearticle, and the time necessarily consumed in carrying out these severaloperations.

An. analysis of this process discloses that the use of wooden blocks asforms for the hat body, 5 accounts for variations in hat sizes, becauseof the relatively high coecient of expansion of wood. The initial steamtreatment disturbs and lo'osens the fabric .of the hat body to such ex.-tent that several of the subsequent operations 10 are required torestore the fur to its original condition. The steam andsaturation'treatment is also responsible for color defects, requiringskillful pouncing to restore the body to its original shade and toeliminate blemishes. 15

The process of my invention eliminates the use of blocks or forms,dispenses entirely withk steam and saturation at any stage, obviates theuse of ironing and pouncing machines fo-r both crown and brim, andlargely does away with 2Q hand treatments except in instancesv where'defective hat bodies are encountered.

The drawing forming a part of this. descrip-V tion illustrates in a moreor less diagrammatic manner the machinery necessary in successfully 2.5carrying out the process, and it will be understood that no claim ismade to the specific machinery illustrated, but that variations thereinmay be resorted to without departing from the spirit .of the invention.Y 3o VIrl the drawing:

Figure 1 is a view showingth'e first step of the process, that is,applying a coat ,of vapor to the interior of the hat body,

Figure 2 discloses the second step, the body 35 being applied to themold-.and the plunger ready to descend,A Y

Figure 3 illustrates the third step, -that is, the plunger .hasdescended and pressure has been applied to the interior of theflexiblebag, 40

Figurey 4 isa fourth step, showing the plunger removed andV the hattemporarily withdrawnv from the mold, y y

VFigure 5 showsV the fth or concluding step, that is, the hat reappliedvto the mold and pres- 45 sure admittedto the interior of the flexiblebag, and

Figure 6 discloses the general appearance of the hat body after theseveral steps of the process havevbeen performed. 50

In carrying out my process I rst take the rough hat body and apply to asurface thereof, for a brief interval, 'vapor'or moistened warm air.This slightly raises the temperature of the body and .coats thesurfacethereof with anv .ex- 55 soY e relieve brittleness.

tremely light film of moisture, sufficient only to The body is thenapplied to a heated'mold of the shape and size the finished hat is toassume, Ywhereupon a plunger` equipped with an expansible head movesinto the hatbody. Fluid pressure applied to the interior of the headexpands the latter and forces the body into intimate Contact with theinterior of. the mold. The temperature of the mold is such asnot toconvert the lm of moistureA toY steam, but only to Va. porize it, andthepressure withinthe head is sufficient to cause this vapor to entirelypene-V trate or to be driven throughpthe thickness ov the hat body. ThisperrneationV of the felt body by the vapor creates a suppleness sucientonly to assure a proper fitting and shaping of the bodywithoutrdisturbing the fur or in any'wayaffecting the color thereof.YThe pressurel is Y'maintained for a few` moments, or only sunicientlylong to drive the vapor through the body, whereupon it is relieved andthe plunger withdrawn. Theihat is removed from the mold to the openairfora brief intervaL'thenit is replaced in the mold the plunger-Lislowered and pressure-,againgapplied. The pressureon this vvsecondoccasion is continuedY a trifle. longer than in the first instance .todefinitely fix the sizeand shape and upon.withdrawall of .the plungerthe hat is removed, the brim is cut andtrimmed lining and sweatbandsiare applied andthe hat is ready foruse.- r. Y

Inv the drawing ,I indicates a pan or shallow tray mounted .uponasuitable support and con- Y ering` Y represented at 2 I vapor passingwithin taining water. A burner I I .beneath the pan suplies Vsuflicientheatto create a vapor rising from the pan through a lattice orforaminous cover I2 on the vpan and uponwhichthe rough hat body I3rests. Y

. The sl'iapingmoldk is indicated at Ill,V andris formedfpreferablyofaluminum or other metal Yhaving a low coefficient` of expansion and of asize andV shape Vthe finished hat isto assume'. This mold may besuitably supported as shown and is heated in any preferredmanner.Y IntheY present instance, a gas burner AI supplies heat to the bottom' ofthemoldwhile perforated gas pipes I6 i supply heat tothe upper or brimportions .of mold.

d with an` outstandingflange The moldis equippe .I 1 upon which the brimof thehatwill be shaped. The plunger includes the hollow core I8 open atits lower end .and which carries a exible cove constituting'a bagsecurely sealed at its upper end in anyrapproved manner .upon'theexteriorof the plunger.. Thisplunger also includes flange vpressing..portions 20 heatedlby perforated gas pipes Hydraulic pressure withinthe plungeris supplied by pip-es 22 leading to 'asuitable source ofhydraulic supply and controlled by suitable valves, not shown.Y -Y Y InFigure 1 ofthe drawingthe hat body I3 is shown in theY course of thevapor treatment, the the hat body and covering theinterior. surfaceAonlyin a light film. The bodyVV reina-insV overthe pan I0 only for a briefintervaL-fas-it is important that thebody not be saturated withmoisture. YIn Figurel2 the hat body has been inverted and dropped Vintothe shaping mold I4 -and is ready" for the first pressure operation. InFigureB Vthe plunger has been movedrinto themold and hydraulic pressurehas been admitted to the interior of Vthe hat, .expanding the rubber bagVagainst the hat bodyV and intovintimater contact with vthe interior ofthe mold. It will be .noted that in this Vpositionthe applicationof'pressure.

. moisture and causes the I9 'ofheeyy Iubber .or the vlike; Vthis cover'In Figure 4 the hydraulic pressure has been 'Y relieved, the plungerwithdrawn and the hatremoved temporarily, while in Figure k5 the hat hasbeen reapplied to the mold, the plunger lowered and hydraulic pressureVagain applied; Figure 6A after this last.

shows the appearance of the hat While no means 'are disclosed for movingthe plunger, it will be understood that the same is.

brought down with sufcient force :to have the parts assume properposition and to create suflifoient pressure between the flanges I'I-20to properly treat .the brim. As regards internal pres- "sures in' themold, experiments have disclosed that ahead of 100 pound pressureproduces the -best results.

VThe rst application of pressure is maintained only for a few moments,just sufficient to vaporize the lm and to drive the vapor into the body,and when the'hatmis Withdrawn after this. first .pressure application,the vaporsV therefrom rapidly pass .'off. These .vapors are created bythe heat fromthe walls of the mold I4, such 'heat` being sunicient Vtoproduce Yvapor but notsteam. By submittingthe vhatbody to a high degreeof pressure .atthe samev time the body is heated bythe mold, the vaporsupon the interior of the hat crownpassV entirely through the same andthus sufficiently soften thebers to obtain a proper and even shaping ofthe body withoutfdisturbing the felt formation or inV any Way affectingthe dye that is' present in the body. The momentary wthdrawalof the bodyfrom the mold bringsk the hat into the atmosphereand re-v lieves thevapors and in thesecond application of Vthebody to the mold,the body ispractically dry vand substantially free from all moisture. The nalpressing operation drives. off any remaining crown and brim to'becomefirmly set and in such condition as to maintain its shape withoutfurther treatment; Y

It has been found that by making the hatin accordance with the methodoutlined, a number of steps employed in hat treatment methods heretoforeproposed are eliminated, and the resulting articleis superior to sistsin slightly moistening the surface only of the hat body, thereafterintroducing thehat body to a heated mold and applying pressure upon thehat body againstthe mold. .Y

2. The method of -making felt hats which Vconsists in slightlymoistening one'surfacegonlyof the hat body, applying theY body to aheated mold with its dry surface against said. mold, and'driv*Y ing themoisture through the hat body by applying pressure to the moistsurfacethereof e 3. The method of making felt hats -whichconsists in slightlymoistening one surface onlyof the hat body, applying the body to a` moldheated only sufficient Vto producevapor fromsaid mois.- ture, anddriving said vapor through the hat body by pressure. 3 1 1 4. The methodof making felt hats which consistsrin slightly moistening onesurfaceionly of the hat body, applying the body to a heated mold,applying pressure to 'the bodyk within the mold Y,for a brief interval,removing the body from the mold,

that producedby meth- Yods heretofore practiced. The elimination ofV Y.y

moisture, applying pressure to the body to force the same against theheated mold, withdrawing the body from the mold momentarily, againapplying the body to the mold, repeating the pressure upon said bodyagainst the mold and finally 5 removing the body from the mold.

SAMUEL KANNER.

